Denver, 16/6-2004
Hello again
It’s been a while since I wrote you last due to an alarming lack of internet accessibility. This means that there’s that much more to tell, but for fear of boring everyone to death with triviality I’ll try to restrain myself.
As I wrote my last letter, I considered staying in San Francisco for a few days, the hostel being nice and the city interesting. I changed my mind however for a couple of reasons. First; the weather deteriorated rapidly, bringing in a thick fog, and chilly winds. Second; Some BASTARD stole my slippers. And third; I started to feel the earth burning under my feet – Visa-wise. As you know, I’m traveling on a Student visa, which will expire on June 14, and thus I needed to get to Canada and re-enter the States, before then.
I thus continued northbound on the Pacific Coast Highway, which changes rather dramatically north of the Bay area. The landscape becomes more rugged, more forested, and also a bit colder, with the chill winds sweeping in from the Pacific. The beaches are no longer warm and inviting, but more harsh, and desert like. One morning I was taking a run on the beach and I actually got lost in the sand dunes, and had to backtrack in my own footprints to find the car again.
I was however, at this point itching (literally) for a freshwater shower and a real bed to sleep in, and so Seattle was a nice change from the more rustic living of Pacific beaches and Redwood forests. Seattle, like San Francisco is blessed with many excellent hostels, but unlike SF the city has a major flaw; it practically shuts down at 9 in the evening! I really don’t get this. During the day there were lots of interesting stuff going on in what is obviously a vibrant, interesting, and beautiful city, but at 8 the coffee houses close, and at 9 most of the restaurants follow suit. Its no wonder people are Sleepless in Seattle, they go to bed before normal people have the dinner… Anyways, remember the visa thing? I left Seattle on the 14th, for the border and FREEDOM!
Getting into Canada was no problem. Vancouver, site of the American Embassy, has excellent climate, is cheap (Canadian dollars are worth less), AND they show the European Soccer Championships in their bars. For these and other reasons I was tempted to stay in Canada for a few days, but I figured that it might be best to get this visa thing out of the way. I thus set my alarm clock for an early rise, planning on beating the traffic to the border. As the alarm rang, I was up in a flash, and ready to go… I just needed a shower, for which I needed my towel, for which I needed my keys to open the locker… But ups! My keys were in the locker… with my towel… and my money… and my clothes…
Long story short, when the reception opened there were numerous people asking to check out, a couple of people asking to check in, and one guy with a red face and white boxer-shorts asking to borrow a set of really big bolt cutters…
Arriving a little later than planned at the border I got in line and got my visa, though the customs officer did mention that on a bad day he might not have let me back in since one day in Canada is not a “meaningful departure”, whatever that is… Anyways I got my documents in order, and now they’ll never catch me!
The next leg of my trip brought me east again, through the eastern parts of Washington, a quick rush through Idaho, and finally to Montana. And let me tell you right away: Montana is definitely worth seeing! If the landscapes of Grand Canyon and Big Sur have a spiritual quality, then Montana is more down to earth. It is a very rustic and serene looking land, but at the same time very majestic with deeply rooted mountains, forests and lakes. The best known national park is of course Yellowstone, but that was something of a disappointment to me. Partly because the damn thing burned down a couple of years back and haven’t fully recuperated yet, but even more so since I had one of the most defining moments of my trip (if not my life), a couple of days earlier in Glacier National Park and Yellowstone simple couldn’t compete.
What happened in Glacier N.P. started out quite normal with a drive through the park. I figured on spending two days in the park, the first one hiking along some rather demanding trails, and the other kayaking on the mountain lakes. I was at the park at nine in the morning, and was happy to find that the weather was apparently keeping most other visitors in their cars or at home. I packed my backpack with a bottle of water, the remains of a box of cookies and my raincoat.
I thought I had also packed my rain pants but had accidentally taken an extra jacket… oh well no problem…
I thought I had packed extra socks, but had apparently forgotten. Ah well, I probably won’t get wet feet…
Finally, I thought my compass was in the pocket of my raincoat, but it turned out to be in the pocket of my rain pants; the ones that I unfortunately left in the car… Never mind, I’ll make do…
What follows is a long story of really, really stupid decisions on my part leading to an unplanned, two-day hike in a valley with nothing but trees, thorns, and swamps. At night, as the temperature went down to about zero (this was after all, a glacier) I was seriously doubting weather I’d make it out! A combination of warm thoughts, and continuous leg-rubbing kept me sufficiently warm to make it over a mountain pass the next day, and from there, back to the regular trails… I’m not sure how much of that particular story merits inclusion in this letter, so I’ll just say the following:
Making fire by rubbing two twigs together is NOT as easy as it looks.
Hypothermia, dehydration, and sleep depredation does not make for intelligent decision making.
Rabbit are really fast! Otherwise I would have knifed the bastards as they came close to me during the night… Can you say Cold rabbit stew and a new set of mittens for daddy?
I came back to the souvenir shops (where they sell FOOD and hot chocolate!!!) 30 hours after I left, after having hiked some 30 miles in the mountains. And before people (Mom, I looking at you) start berating me for hiking alone in the wilderness, I’d just like to say that any hiking partners would have made no difference besides eating my cookies ;) A full account of my mighty adventures in Glacier National Park can be attained if desired, but I suggest you just wait for the motion picture. I understand Brad Pitt is interested in the part of the lone hero.
With that behind me, I was a little disappointed by Yellowstone National Park, and when bad weather hit the mid-west, I decided to head for the big city. Denver excelled by providing me with an Irish pub, showing the European Soccer Championships, a feat that I hope Minneapolis will be able to match as I return to Minnesota to see old friends.
With that I leave you with the fond wish that I won’t ever, EVER miss 4 meals again. It’s just no fun…
Martin